New Orleans is a place that has fascinated me, and many others, for as long as I can remember; with its rich tapestry of culture, history, and beliefs, it's unsurprising. I was fortunate enough to finally visit in 2023, and I fell in love with the city and the people. I wanted to visit many places, but the St Louis Cemetery Number One was at the top of the list. Nicknamed the ‘Cities of the Dead’ by Mark Twain, here is just a little about the resting places in Nola.
Early colonists soon realised that burying bodies under the ground wasn’t practical in New Orleans; regular flooding would lead to the deceased re-emerging from the earth – not a pleasant sight!
St Louis Cemetery (later known as St Louis Cemetery Number One) was created in 1788 after a yellow fever epidemic, and the first above-ground tomb was built in 1804. It didn’t take long before these unusual mausoleums were considered status symbols. The Bayou St John cemetery was opened in 1835 and was predominantly filled with those who had perished from yellow fever. By the 1840s, it had closed and, sadly, the exact location has been lost to history, leaving St Louis Number One as the oldest standing cemetery.
Another interesting fact about these above-ground graves is that they work as ‘ovens.’ A body will be placed into the tomb and sealed in. Because of the temperature in New Orleans, the inside creates its own crematorium, so to speak, and within a year, only bones remain. It is common for families to share graves, so if it's been a year since the last interment, the tomb is opened, and the bones are swept into an opening in the floor, and the process is repeated. If a family member dies before the 12 months is up, they are stored in temporary tombs until they can be interred into their own.
I visited St Louis Cemetery Number One, and sadly, some of the 700 tombs have become damaged over time, even though many are still used. However, even among the decay, you can see the beauty.
The Italian Benevolent Society Tomb was built in 1857, and it was one of the most expensive ($40,000 at the time). The baroque-style tomb features 24 vaults within and is decorated with carved marble and statues; it featured and was damaged in the 1969 film Easy Rider. Three feminine figures stand over the structure; one holds a cross, one is above the word ‘Italia,’ and one represents Charity.
One of the most famous tombs in St Louis One belongs to one of the most famous women to have come from Louisiana – Marie Laveau. Marie was born in 1801 and was considered the voodoo queen of New Orleans. Although she worked as a hairdresser, she also sold charm, told fortunes, and worked her magic throughout the community. When Marie passed and was placed in her final resting place, many followers believed she could continue her spell weaving from beyond the grave. The legend goes that you draw three ‘Xs’ on the tomb, turn around three times, knock on the tomb, and shout out the wish. If your wish is granted, you return to the Tomb, circle your ‘Xs’ and leave an offering to Marie’s spirit. Sadly, the grave became so damaged and overwhelmed with gifts that ‘fake’ graves were set up to confuse people as to Marie’s actual whereabouts. In 2013, the grave was vandalised with bright pink paint, leading to an expensive, lengthy restoration process, and now you can only enter St Louis cemetery with an official guide.
Walking around, you may be surprised to see a giant white pyramid looking somewhat out of place amongst the older graves. And it belongs to...Nick Cage. Because, of course, Nicholas Cage bought a gigantic white pyramid mausoleum. Apparently, he’s a massive fan of New Orleans and visits every year to have his fortune read. I heard he had the vast tomb built as a bit of a tax dodge, but I won’t comment on that!
There have been rumours that the infamous Madame Delphine LaLaurie, originally buried in Montmartre Cemetery, Paris, was exhumed and laid to rest in St Louis One. However, there is no proof of this happening.
And finally…hauntings. It will come as no surprise that people believe they see ghosts in graveyards, especially ones such as St Louis One. One ghost who is said to walk the grounds is Henry Vignes, a sailor who lived in the 19th century. Before heading to sea, Henry asked his landlord to look after some papers, including the rights to his family's tomb. The landlord sold the tomb, and on his return, Henry was unable to reclaim what was his, eventually being buried in an unmarked grave. Visitors have claimed to have seen a tall, blue-eyed man who asks them for directions to the Vignes tomb. I also read that people have recorded a male voice wearily saying, ‘I need to rest’, using Electronic Voice Phenomena.
Walking around the crumbling graves can feel disorientating, with walkways everywhere. But it’s also peaceful, calming and hauntingly appealing, reminding you that death isn’t the end of you and your memory; just look at Ms Laveau.
Thanks for reading; take care, and I will see you soon!
Hi! I spend a lot of time writing for the website, and I basically exist on caffeine and anxiety - if anybody would like to encourage this habit, please feel free to buy me a coffee!
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